Given the wintry year in mood and weather, it’s no surprise that our picks from the last of these groups, the fresh-faced new restaurants, all have something in common. But it’s also brought us a new kind of appreciation for restaurants big and small, old and new. They say the British default to speaking about the weather when times are tough and, frankly, having eaten dinner in an apocalyptic, billowing marquee in Soho during a friendly April bout of gale force winds, we think we’re well within our rights to revert to type. 2021 will go down as many things, and none of them will be particularly warm.
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